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Baden 2018 Oberrotweil Spätburgunder RS

Konrad Salwey. Eigenaar. Wijnmaker, oenoloog en Bourgonge specialist. Hij voltooide zijn opleiding tot wijnmaker bij de wijnmakerijen WIRSCHING en MÜLLER-CATOIR. Daarna ging hij rechtstreeks naar Geisenheim, waar hij zijn studie oenologie aan de universiteit voltooide. In de zomer van 2002 keerde Konrad Salwey vervolgens terug naar de wijnmakerij van zijn ouders in Oberrotweil am Kaiserstuhl om geleidelijk het management over te nemen. Konrad Salwey is nu verantwoordelijk voor de gekozen strategische richting van de wijnmakerij en de uitbreiding van de wijnen. Hij wordt beschouwd als een pionier op het gebied van lichte, frisse en alcoholarme Bourgondische wijnen. Zijn voorkeur gaat uit naar de uitbreiding van de witte Bourgogne in grote houten vaten en de rode wijnen in barriques. Konrad geniet van de Badense keuken, is een familieman en een gepassioneerd jeu de boules-speler.

Kleur, Geur en Smaak

De Pinot Noir Reserve (RS) komt van zijn allerbeste wijngaarden met oude Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) wijnstokken. Gerijpt in barriques (1/3 nieuw, 1/3 tweede vulling en 1/3 oudere barriques). Ook gebruikt hij een gedeelte hele trossen. Het resultaat is een intense en gestructureerde Pinot uit Baden die nog vrij veel reserve heeft om zich te ontwikkelen. De neus is intens en goed geconcentreerd. Ook krachtig en intens in de mond, zeer aantrekkelijke brede aanzet met hele zachte tannines. Puur en harmonieus in


Lasagne met paddenstoelen en parelhoender, poulet noir met morilles en pastinaakpuree


















13 %

Baden 2018 Oberrotweil Spätburgunder RS

Baden 2018 Oberrotweil Spätburgunder RS
Duitsland - Rood - 2018

The 2018 Spätburgunder RS is intense and toasty on the deep, well-concentrated and reductive nose. Powerful and intense on the palate, this is a wide, very attractive and elegant Pinot that doesn't have the depth and structure of the GG bottlings but can compete with any Bourgogne Villages. This is not just charming, it is a dramatically charming Pinot Noir from one of the Kaiserstuhl's very best vineyards. Tasted as a sample in May 2020.

Bottled in July, Konrad Salwey will release his 2017 Grosses Gewächs white wines in November this year, whereas the 2018 Pinot Noir GGs will be held back until later next year. "Although picked as early as the end of August and during the first nine days of September, our 2017 Pinot Noirs are more typical for our style and start tasting beautiful right now," he explained during a phone call in early August. A couple of months before, still in May, just after he had bottled his 2018 Pinot Noir GGs, Salwey said, "There is such an incredible run onto the 2018s that it would be almost negligent not to ride this wave this year..." Yet, he wasn't sure what he should do. Luckily he re-thought the things again with regard to the house style and took another decision in favor of the excellent 2017s, which I didn't see as any less outstanding than the awaited 2018s. However, wines guide their own lives, and "for the moment, our 2018 Pinots are reminiscent of Syrah rather than Pinot," Salwey explained. "Due to the intense sunshine hours in 2018, the berry skins became so thick that the style of wines have changed into a direction that is perhaps not so typical for us. I hope, though, that a longer aging in the bottle will soften the wines as I do hope for our white GGs as well." The harvest in 2018 was even a week earlier than in 2017 and the earliest in the history of the domain. It started on August 22 and went until September 15. While Salwey has always produced remarkably good red wines from the three grand crus in Oberrotweil/Kaiserstuhl—Eichberg, Kirchberg and Henkenberg—there was a light but significant shift in style and quality from 2016 to 2017. Tasting his red GGs from 2014 to 2016 in a row, Salwey wasn't very happy with the phenols and wondered aloud, “Why are the tannins in my wines slightly too aggressive?” After extensive conversations with colleagues in Germany and Burgundy, he changed the way of extracting. Whereas before 2017, the grapes were punched down during the cold maceration and pump-overs were applied during the fermentation, he reserved the extraction. Since 2017, the rémontage is applied during the cold maceration, and the pigéage is done during the fermentation, which gives smoother tannins and a finer expression of the fruit. Today, the vinification includes at least a one-third portion of whole clusters with the other part made of de-stemmed berries, which sets the juice free more quickly while the emergent carbonic gas protects the growing must from oxidation. The bottling has also changed slightly, as Salwey now uses argon now when he empties his barrels to prepare the bottling, which also preserves the fruit. It's expensive, but if you want to improve wine qualities, you always have to pay more. Back to the whites. Aging Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris grand crus over a period of three winters is sensationally long by German standards. The 2017 Kirchberg GG was kept for two years on the lees in oak barrels and then was racked with the lees into a stainless steel tank before it was bottled in July this year. The 2018, however, will be kept in oak for the whole period, since Salwey also finds the phenols quite prominent in his whites and assumes a longer aging in oak will soften them better than aging in stainless steel. Based on the samples I tasted in May, I am less enthusiastic about the 2017 white GGs at the moment. I found them greenish, just-ripe (if ripe at all), pretty lean and rather short. Well, they are bone-dry and were picked as early as the reds, which means between the end of August and September 8. I will taste them again later this summer from the bottle, knowing all too well how much aeration can improve a wine that has been on its lees for such a long while without any movement. I wish I would have had the time to let the wines take some air for an hour or so, but there were so many wines to taste for this report, and if I may say so, my hope that the wines could change fundamentally for the better when they are aired was rather subdued. At the same time, I have admired Konard Salwey for many years, not only for his Pinot Noirs but also for his whites, which are firmly structured, broad and not at all opulent. In view of the increasingly hot and dry summers, however, I did not want to exclude the possibility during my tasting in Bremen that (all too) early harvesting might be a rather unfortunate solution, even though it is being foolhardy tried everywhere—with manageable success in my opinion.

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